Crowden, Glossop, High Peak, Derbyshire

Back from another cheeky Jolly jaunt!  This time we fancied another peek at the Peak District.

Crowden, a village lying in the Longdendale Valley of the High Peak area of Derbyshire, north-east of Glossop, was our destination.  It’s Derbyshire’s most northerly village and a popular first stop for those walking the 267-mile Pennine Way which begins approx. 16 miles away in Edale and stretches allllllll the way up to Kirk Yetholm, just over the Scottish Border.  Anyway, enough about that, I’ve sprung a blister just thinking about it.

There are 6 reservoirs within the Longdendale Valley (Woodhead, Torside, Rhodeswood, Valehouse, Bottoms and Arnfield) known collectively as the ‘Longdendale Chain’ on the River Etherow.  There was apparently once a seventh reservoir at nearby Hollingworth but that one was abandoned and became what is today Swallows Wood Nature Reserve.

We stayed for the first time at Crowden Camping and Caravanning Club Site.  A site mostly for walkers/cyclists or anyone wanting to get away from it all as it is in quite a remote location compared to many other sites.  There are plenty of places to visit that are a drive away, fine if you have transport but we didn’t see anything in the way of public transport in the immediate area.

It’s a lovely little site though, with a recently refurbished toilet block and the staff provide a great food service for weary walkers, etc. in the form of pizzas/burgers in the evening, and breakfasts.  We didn’t use this service as we had brought our own food for the first evening and ate while out and about the following day, but it appeared to be very popular with many campers.  There was even delivery to your pitch – nice touch!

http://www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk/campsites/uk/glossop/crowden/crowden

Crowden is situated on high moorland and was originally created to re-locate people displaced by the necessity to dam and flood the lower part of the valley when the reservoirs were created between 1848-1884.  It was once served by a railway station on the Woodhead Line which linked the cities of Manchester and Sheffield and ran through the valley via the Woodhead Tunnel.  The station was closed in 1957 and the line used for the last time in 1981.

Part of the old railway line has since been transformed into the 7-mile ‘Longdendale Trail’ (part of NCN62) running from nearby Hadfield to the Woodhead Tunnel.  You can walk, cycle or ride ya horse along it.

We joined the trail at Crowden, rode the section to Woodhead tunnel and back before then following the rest of the trail into Hadfield, where we had a wander around the town and a bite to eat, before heading back home along the trail.

Woodhead Reservoir

The trail is relatively flat, just a gradual incline heading Woodhead way from Hadfield but this isn’t particularly noticeable.  It’s a hard gravel surface so is easy to ride but apparently it can be difficult if very wet.  Because the trail is exposed, it provides wonderfully uninterrupted scenic views of the surrounding landscape and reservoirs, with plenty of viewing places to sit awhile and just take it all in.   We definitely saw this place at it’s best as the weather couldn’t have been better – cloudless skies and not so much as a breeze.

On arrival at Hadfield we just had a mooch around.  The town, particularly the main street, was used as the filming location for ‘The League of Gentlemen’.   We just happened upon the Pauline’s Job Centre.

After an afternoon of cycling and walking we stopped to enjoy a couple of real ales and a meal in the beer garden at The Peels Arms Hotel, before heading back along the trail to site.

http://www.peelsarms.co.uk/

Another great weekend has flown by.  Fab weather, hope it continues!

ONWARD!>>>>

Suzie & Bri

A Christmassy Castleton, High Peak, Derbyshire

Castleton is described as one of the most beautiful villages in the Peak District, and it’s easy to see why.  From the quaint architecture to the unspoiled natural features surrounding the village, the whole place is pleasing to the eye.  The welcome from and interaction with locals here was very friendly and relaxed too, making it a place we will return to.

http://www.peakdistrictinformation.com/towns/castleton.php

* The Caravan Club recommend that you don’t use SatNav on the approach to the village and list on their website a recommended alternative route *

We approached from the west side of the village via Winnats Pass which was an impressive sight as the narrow, winding road passed through some spectacularly high limestone rock faces.  This road isn’t suitable for vehicles over 7.5 tonnes or towing caravans.

Driving through the towering limestone pinnacles of Winnats Pass

Driving through the towering limestone pinnacles of Winnats Pass

"Are we nearly there yet?"

“Are we nearly there yet?”

A rainy arrival into Castleton

A rainy arrival into Castleton

On our return journey we took the road out through the village of Hope in the opposite direction as you turn out of the club site.  This was due to foggy weather and although the route also took us high over the tops it was a wider road.

image

A daunting drive through the fog on the way out of Hope Valley

A daunting drive through the fog on the way out of Hope Valley

For our 2 night stay, we pitched up at the Castleton Caravan Club Site, a 10-minute leisurely walk from the centre of the village.

Perfect weather for the site ducks 💦

Perfect weather for the site ducks 💦

The Caravan Club site reception trimmed up for Christmas

The Caravan Club site reception trimmed up for Christmas

Jolly pitched up on site

Jolly pitched up on site

This site is open all year round and we were surprised at how busy it was for the end of November.  That said, this is good walking country all year round and the village is also known for being particularly pretty at Christmas time with lights adorning the streets and the festivities drawing in visitors.

Festive charm in Castleton

Festive charm of Castleton

It’s a lovely time to visit.  There were still plenty of good size pitches to choose from and as the site is located just at the edge of the village there was no noise.

Wildlife on site

Wildlife on site

http://www.caravanclub.co.uk/caravanclubapps/applications/uk-caravan-sites-and-parks/SiteDetails.aspx?csid=21925

The ruins of Peveril Castle stand majestically overlooking Castleton at its foot.  The Norman Castle was built 1080-1086 for William Peverel, a favourite Knight of William The Conqueror (some rumours claiming he was his illegitimate son).  Unfortunately for us, visiting out of season, the Castle was only open to visitors at weekends.  Suzie was looking forward to the opportunity of some good photography from here, but still managed to capture a shot she was happy with of the Castle against a brooding moorland and sky.

The imposing Peveril Castle standing above the village

The imposing Peveril Castle standing above the village

As the Castle was closed we walked a little further on through the village.

The stream that runs the village was swollen following the recent rainfall

The stream that runs through the village was swollen following the recent rainfall

"Make sure you get my best side" 📸

“Make sure you get my best side” 📸

We walked up into the notorious Devil’s Arse … also known as Peak Cavern!  We had a very animated and entertaining tour guide who regaled us with stories of the ancient rope making works situated there in days gone by.  She was also very keen on talking quite dramatically about the cave flooding as it had done just the night before.  Bearing in mind the amount of rain that had fallen over the last few days, we were prepared for a sharp exit if the alarms started sounding!

Walk up to the entrance of Peak Cavern

Walk up to the entrance of Peak Cavern

Bri trying his hand at rope making. The hemp stinks!

Bri trying his hand at rope making. The hemp stank … quite apt I suppose, as we were in the Devil’s Arse 😉

There are around 4 show caves in the area.  Speedwell Cavern, an 18th century lead mine is worth checking out although we didn’t have time during this visit.

http://www.peakcavern.co.uk/

All this activity obviously led to quite a thirst which needed quenching.  Castleton apparently used to be overrun with ale houses, and even today there is no shortage.

We visited Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Inn and Suzie enjoyed her first mulled wine of the season (followed by another … and I think another …).  This is the first pub you come to when walking from the site and is a traditional half-timbered 17th century coaching inn offering B&B.

http://www.cheshirecheeseinn.co.uk/

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Inn

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Inn

Just next door is the Peak Hotel, an independent pub which has recently been renovated and refurbished.

http://www.thepeakhotel.co.uk/peaksinn/index.html

Inside The Peak Hotel

Inside The Peak Hotel

The Peak Hotel is a gin lover's paradise. Lost count of the different varieties stocked behind the bar

The Peak Hotel is a gin lover’s paradise.  We’ve forgotten how many different varieties the landlady said she stocks

The Castle pub was definitely, in our opinion, the place to eat within the village itself.  We ate here on our last evening and were very pleased with the food and service.  If we’d known how exceptionally good it was we’d probably have eaten here both nights.  We can highly recommend this one.  Apparently the Poacher’s Arms, further out from the centre has a good reputation too but we didn’t visit this time.

http://www.vintageinn.co.uk/restaurants/midlands/thecastlecastleton

Top scran at The Castle. Yum.

Top scran at The Castle.  Yum.

The evening before we’d eaten at Ye Old Nag’s Head.  The food was fine but not of the same standard as The Castle.

http://www.yeoldenagshead.co.uk/

We also visited The George Hotel and The Bulls Head.  It was difficult not to, as they were all just a stone’s throw from one another.  Perfect! 🙂

http://www.georgehotelcastleton.co.uk/

http://www.bullsheadcastleton.co.uk/

This was another fun and memorable Jolly adventure.  The winter trips are every bit as enjoyable for us as the summer ones, there’s always something to do whatever the weather.  You really feel the changing of the seasons too when you’re adventuring throughout the year, and we think it gives us a bigger appreciation of it.

Well, another one down.  December is a busy month, so our next trip won’t be until Christmas time for Bri’s Boxing Day birthday, and it’ll be back over to Clitheroe and Waddington.  Not too long to wait.

ONWARD!>>>> 🎅🏻🎄

Suzie & Bri

Bakewell, Peak District, Derbyshire

Our latest Jolly adventure took us back to the Peak District area, this time to Bakewell.

Beautiful weather and scenery en route to Bakwell

Beautiful weather and scenery en route to Bakewell

Perfect travelling weather. ONWARD!>>>>

Perfect travelling weather.
ONWARD!>>>>  🚐

The sun was shining on Jolly

The sun was shining on Jolly 😎

The journey was longer than planned, due to delays caused by roadworks in towns we passed through.  We were clock watching as we’d booked the Thornbridge Brewery Tour for 3pm and arrived with very little time to spare after pitching up, etc.  We shot off into town on our bikes and managed to make the majority of the tour so we were happy bunnies.  It was an interesting tour, we learned about the growth of the brewery, the brewing process, and sampled a couple of beers (Jaipur, Bayern & ‘I love you will you marry me’).  We were given a Thornbridge beer glass each too, so they’ll no doubt be well used on our future Jolly journeys.  It’s well worth a visit to both the brewery and the well stocked shop, which are located on the Riverside Business Park half way between the Greenhills Holiday Park we stayed at and Bakewell town centre.

http://www.thornbridgebrewery.co.uk/index.php

Thornbridge Riverside Brewery, Bakewell

Thornbridge Riverside Brewery

The campsite was approx. a mile and a quarter outside the town centre.  It was obviously full at this time of year and in the school holidays, but although quite crowded it wasn’t too noisy.  There is a site bar and shop, and the facilities were adequate, although we didn’t use them as we were off-site the majority of the time and used our onboard facilities when back at base.

http://www.greenhillsholidaypark.co.uk/

The first evening we prepared to sit out beneath a cloudless sky as Suzie was keen to watch the Perseid Meteor Shower. Conditions were perfect.  Unfortunately we were both so tired we couldn’t stay awake til the early hours ended up going to bed!  Fortunately, we had seen a small display of the shower the night before from our garden at home so we didn’t completely miss out on this amazing sight.

Sunset on site

Sunset on site

Pitched up and ready for the Perseid Meteor Shower display ... shortly before Zzzz ...

Pitched up and ready for the Perseid Meteor Shower display … shortly before 😴

Bakewell is a picturesque town with quaint courtyards, shops and cafés.  It’s situated by the River Wye, and is apparently the only market town within the Peak District National Park boundary.  The first day we were there (Wednesday) it was heaving with traffic and pedestrians, but the next day was much quieter and so easier to explore.

Looking a little at the history of Bakewell, it derived its name from ‘Badeca’s well’,  and almost became a spa town but for the coolness of its springs which were unable to match the warmer temperatures of neighbouring Buxton.   The Bath House, built by the Duke of Rutland in 1697, still stands and retains the original bath in the cellar.  It’s probably fair to say, however, that Bakewell is now best known for a confection that came into being in the 19th century when a cook at the Rutland Arms (in the town centre) was supposed to be baking a jam tart but misunderstood the recipe … and, hey presto, the Bakewell Pudding was created!  It seemed only right that we sampled this culinary delight which is an absolute taste sensation!  We brought plenty back with us for family/work colleagues too.  We called into both The Bakewell Pudding Factory and The Old Original Bakewell Pudding Shop for these.

The Bakwell Pudding Factory

The Bakewell Pudding Factory

The Old Original Bakewell Pudding Shop

The Old Original Bakewell Pudding Shop

IMG_7743

A famous Bakewell Pudding

The famous Bakewell Pudding

We spent our second day cycling approx. 24 miles around the local area, which included taking in a return journey along the Monsal Trail.  This is a free public trail for walkers, cyclists and horse riders and was clearly popular with all age groups.  There is cycle hire available if needed, at both the Hassop Station and Blackwell Mill parts of the trail.  It was formerly part of the Midland Railway’s route between Manchester and London and, after being closed for over 40 years, was re-opened following a £2-million restoration scheme.  The trail stretches 8.5 miles between Bakewell and Blackwell Junction near Buxton.  Tunnels, blocked up since the 1960’s have been re-opened, lighting installed and the route resurfaced.  The trail also takes you over impressive viaducts high above the River Wye.  We had been forecast rain but luckily this held off and it was a great afternoon of exercise and sight-seeing.  We loved it.  Very impressive.

Map of the Monsal Trail

Map of the Monsal Trail 🚴

Start of the Monsal Trail at Bakewell

Start of the Monsal Trail at Bakewell

The Old Bakewell Railway Station

The Old Bakewell Railway Station

Hassop Station

Hassop Station

The old Hassop Station, now a cafe along the trail

The old Hassop Station, now a cafe along the trail

Monsal Dale

Monsal Dale

Entrance to the Monsal Head Tunnel along the Monsal Trail

Entrance to the Monsal Head Tunnel along the Monsal Trail

Bri aka Speedy Gonzales leading us through the tunnel

Bri aka Speedy Gonzales leading us through the tunnel

Bri looking down from the Monsal Head Viaduct

Bri looking down from the Monsal Head Viaduct

Some more views from the viaduct and trail:-

FullSizeRender

Needless to say, after a whole day of cycling, we’d worked up quite an appetite and thirst.  Bakewell has a good choice of pubs and cafes.  Each one we called in at had its own charm and atmosphere, except for The Wheatsheaf, which was sadly lacking anything positive.  Not sure whether it’s in the process of a refurb or always like that.  It was empty too which says a lot.

We decided on a curry for tea and my word what a great little place we found.  The Urban Spoon, Indian Street Kitchen, ticked all the right boxes.  It was a different and exciting menu, the food cooked to perfection.  It is an unlicensed premise so if you want to drink you need to take your own.  We were happy with a couple of tasty mango lassis instead as we’d already sampled a couple of drinks beforehand.

http://urbanspoononline.co.uk/

Full to the brim after a great day, we then cycled back (uphill mostly) to camp to cabin up for the night.

A brilliant couple of days.   Big thumbs up to Bakewell 👍

Our next adventure is to the York Rowntree Caravan Club Site which in the past has been difficult to get booked onto, so we’re looking forward to this one.

ONWARD!>>>>

Suzie & Bri

‘The Gateway to Kinder’ – Hayfield Village, Peak District, Derbyshire

This has been a really interesting trip for us.  We were especially looking forward to this Jolly adventure and it lived up to our expectations.  The weather was reasonably kind, some sunshine and no rain.  Hayfield is a beautiful village in the High Peak area of the Peak District National Park and was one of the locations used for the BBC drama ‘The Village’.  It is also the birthplace of the late actor Arthur Lowe aka Captain Mainwaring in Dad’s Army (one of Bri’s favourites, he’s always watching the repeats!).

We stayed at the Camping & Caravanning Club Site just a short walk from the village – approximately 15 minutes along the stream that runs alongside the site.  The staff are helpful, guiding you onto the site and allowing you to choose your own pitch.  We were mid-week on this trip so had plenty to choose from and got a nice sun spot.

http://www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk/campsites/uk/derbyshire/highpeak/hayfield

Hayfield Camping & Caravanning Club Site

Hayfield Camping & Caravanning Club Site

We enjoyed a little time on site before venturing out.  There’s a little piece of history right on the doorstep of this site that’s worth a visit.  It’s opposite the site entrance, across the main road, in Bowden Bridge car park.  It’s an old quarry and the site of the Kinder Scout Mass Trespass of 1932 when around 500 walkers, mostly from Manchester, trespassed en masse and walked from Hayfield to Kinder Scout to secure access rights to open country for all to enjoy forever.

http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/dark-peak/things-to-see-and-do/view-page/item615841/

Commemorative plaque of the Kinder Scout Mass Trespass of 1932, on the quarry wall

Commemorative plaque of the Kinder Scout Mass Trespass of 1932, on the quarry wall

Commemorative bench near the wall plaque

Commemorative bench near the wall plaque

After visiting the old quarry, we called into The Sportsman pub for tea but ended up only having one drink.  We decided not to eat there so can’t comment on the food.  We sat out in the rear beer garden which was tired looking and overgrown, with log furniture that was falling apart and had rusty screws protruding in places.  We’d previously heard it was a good place to visit but apparently the pub is currently awaiting new management so hopefully it’ll get the tlc it needs and regain it’s appeal.  We cycled further down into the village instead, and ate at the Pack Horse Inn.  It’s located in the centre of the village and serves excellent food.  In fact, considering the size of the village, Hayfield is very well served with a good choice of pubs.  Others include: The Royal Hotel, The George Hotel, Kinder Lodge and The Roundhouse.  Needless to say, we popped our heads into most during our trip 🙂

Main road down from site to village

Main road (Kinder Road) down from site to village

On the way into village you pass the beginning of the start of the 267 mile Pennine Way walk which runs up to the Scottish Borders

The Pack Horse Inn, Hayfield

The Pack Horse Inn, Hayfield

The 16th Century George Hotel, Hayfield

The 16th Century George Hotel, Hayfield

While walking through the village it was easy to spot some locations used in the BBC drama ‘The Village’.

The village store viewed from the alleyway that leads to the pub - all used in the BBC drama 'The Village'

The village store viewed from the alleyway that leads to the pub – both used in the BBC drama ‘The Village’

Alleyway down from the main road with the fictional pub entrance on the left

Alleyway down from the main road with the fictional ‘Lamb Inn’ pub entrance on the left

Bri outside the village store

Suzie outside the village store

Hayfield village church and war memorial

Hayfield village church and war memorial

We also visited the late actor Arthur Lowe’s birthplace which is on Kinder Road itself.  We spoke to a friendly neighbour there who informed us that the house with the blue plaque on wasn’t actually where he was born.  He was apparently born at his grandparent’s house next door, lived there for 3 days, then moved with his parents to the house with the plaque on.  So there you go!

Blue plaque at Dad's Army actor Arthur Lowe's birthplace

Blue plaque at Dad’s Army actor Arthur Lowe’s childhood home

For walking fans, Hayfield offers a challenging circular walk up to the moorland plateau that is Kinder Scout, standing around 600 metres above sea level.  It will take approx. 4-6 hours.  The walk begins at Bowden Bridge car park.

http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2012/may/12/kinder-scout-derbyshire-walk

Instead we decided to visit the town of New Mills, cycling along the Sett Valley Trail.  It’s just 2.5 miles to New Mills where you can then proceed on foot through the Torrs Riverside Park to get to the spectacular Millennium Walkway that runs high above the River Goyt.  The walkway is suspended from the side of a gorge and runs around the ruins of the old Torr Mill.

Along the Sett Valley Trail

Along the Sett Valley Trail

View of Kinder Scout from along the Sett Valley Trail

View of Kinder Scout from along the Sett Valley Trail

Brunch stop at the cute little Sett Valley Cafe, Birch Vale

Brunch stop at the cute little Sett Valley Cafe, Birch Vale

Ruins of Torr Mill in New Mills

Ruins of Torr Mill in New Mills

Weir at Torr Mill

Weir at Torr Mill

Lovely spot for some photography

Lovely spot for some photography

Bottoms up!

Bottoms up!

Millennium Walkway, New Mills

Millennium Walkway, New Mills

Millennium Walkway

Ahh, look at that smile 🙂 🙂

Memorial plaque to the man responsible for construction of The Millennium Walkway, who tragically died in the London bombings in 2005

Memorial plaque to the man responsible for construction of The Millennium Walkway, who tragically died in the 7/7 London bombings in 2005

We finished the day off by cycling up to Little Hayfield to visit the Lantern Pike Inn, and had built up quite a thirst and appetite by then.  The pub houses some Corrie memorabilia, not least the original glass doors of the Rover’s Return.  Pat Phoenix (Elsie Tanner) and Tony Warren (writer) both lived in Little Hayfield for a while.  It is also said that Tony Warren wrote the very first Corrie episodes in this pub *gasp* so this was a MUST visit for us two Corrie addicts!

http://www.lanternpikeinn.co.uk/

The Lantern Pike Inn, Little Hayfield

The Lantern Pike Inn, Little Hayfield

Cosy, welcoming pub

Cosy, welcoming pub

Can't believe I actually walked up close to read this carefully!

Can’t believe I actually walked up close to read this carefully!

Excellent pub grub

Good, tasty pub grub

Corrie memorabilia

Corrie memorabilia

Bri aka The Corrie King of Kirkham in Corrie corner heaven

Bri aka The Corrie King of Kirkham in Corrie corner heaven

Suzie, the second biggest Corrie fan!

Suzie, the second biggest Corrie fan!

We chose a good night to visit too (Monday) when a group of local musicians meet and play together in the pub. It was a great atmosphere and entertainment, so much so that we ended up staying a couple of hours longer than originally planned, before heading back to site in the dark to cabin up for the night.

Great break.  Bring on the next one, when we’re back in the Peak District to visit Bakewell, home of the tart.  Don’t you comment Bri!

ONWARD!>>>>

Suzie & Bri